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Caught in a Timewarp at Hill End

Visiting a historic site is always interesting, but when the entire town is a historic site you know you’re somewhere special. In the 1870s, Hill End was a sophisticated town of 8,000 people. It was the height of the gold rush. There were dozens of hotels, streets full of shops, several churches and even a school. Then the gold stopped flowing and within a matter of years, Hill End became a ghost town.

The journey out to Hill End feels increasingly remote the further you go. It’s inspiring scenery of country Australia. You can only imagine what it was like for the people who made this journey more than a century ago, keeping a watchful eye out for bushrangers. It was 1872, and the largest gold nugget ever found had been unearthed at Hill End when a blast of explosives revealed what miners called a “wall of gold”. Dubbed the “Holtermann Nugget”, it was international news. Miners and merchants alike flocked to the area, eager to make their fortunes. A town sprang up out of the dust.

Things to do…

1. Explore a Part of Australian History

Today, Hill End is a historic site run by National Parks. The number of original buildings that are still standing is amazing. Just as fascinating are the bare plots of land with visible stone foundations and a photograph of the shop or cottage that had once stood there. It’s an easy stroll around several blocks of historic buildings, but if you have young kids you might want to bring their bikes. The streets are fairly quiet and it’s a great way to keep them amused as they cycle from site to site. There is no gold panning or fossicking allowed in Hill End, but you can try your luck at the signposted fossicking area about four kilometres north of the town.

2. Camp Under the Stars

Hill End is doable as a day trip from nearby Mudgee or Gulgong, but you can also camp here. The Village Campground is right in the heart of the town and offers a unique camping experience. Just be sure to bring enough food and water as it’s a long drive to the nearest grocery store. The Royal Hotel in the centre of town is a good place to grab some lunch or quench your thirst. Your other option is the Baker & Grocer cafe across the road which serves meals and coffee.

3. Walk through a Replica Gold Mine

History Hill is a private museum a few kilometres out of town. The museum is chock-a-block with collected artifacts from the gold rush era. But the biggest attraction is the replica gold mine they have built on the property. The mine has a practical, homemade look that adds to its authenticity. It’s an immersive experience, not for people afraid of enclosed spaces or heights. There is a narrow vertical mine shaft with half a dozen wooden ladders you need to climb to get out. My four-year-old scampered up these with ease, but this is not for everyone. Still, it gives a memorable impression of what a gold mine might have felt like to work in.

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