The old collapsed gaol stands on a rocky headland overlooking the glistening waters of Trial Bay. Emerald waves break on an abandoned breakwater built by convicts more than a century ago. The long curved beach was once the site where a stolen ship ran aground, piloted by escaped convicts. Across the bay, a cruisy coastal village eats and plays in the shade of Norfolk Island pines. Welcome to South West Rocks.
South West Rocks is a coastal village in New South Wales, midway between Sydney and Brisbane. The township centres around a gorgeous beachfront park at Horseshoe Bay. Here you’ll find relaxed cafes and shops within an easy stroll. The historic Trial Bay Gaol and Smokey Cape Lighthouse are both within a short drive and are well worth a visit. For a unique blend of beaches, cafes and colonial history, there’s no place quite like South West Rocks.
What to do…
1. Get Locked Up in Trial Bay Gaol
The first convicts arrived at Trial Bay Gaol in 1886. Their task was to build a 1.5-mile breakwater from Laggers Point, to transform the bay into a suitable harbour for ships. Huge granite boulders were quarried from the nearby headlands and moved into position by a horse-drawn tram. At its peak, the gaol held close to 300 inmates. Then in 1903, the NSW government decreed that goals like this were no longer necessary. Work stopped on the breakwater and the gaol was abandoned. It reopened again in 1915, as an internment camp for people of German origin who were living in Australia.
Today, the ruins of the historic gaol are managed by NSW National Parks. For a fee, you can walk around the gaol, snap a photo behind bars, and climb up a guard tower for an elevated view of Trail Bay and the old ruins. You’ll also have a photo op with the current inmates: lazy kangaroos that lie in the shade and snack on the lawn.
2. Swim and Play at Horseshoe Bay
Named after its distinctive shape, this sheltered cove is the most popular swimming beach at South West Rocks. It’s surrounded by parklands with plenty of shade from the Norfolk Island pines. Fish and chips, ice cream and a flat white are all a short stroll away. The beach is also popular with surfers who jump in at the point for a smooth ride in. The park also has a fantastic children’s playground, complete with a flying fox that kids will love.
3. Maroon Yourself at Trial Bay
Trial Bay is named after a small ship “The Trial” that was hijacked by escaped convicts in Sydney in 1813. The pirates and their ship disappeared without a trace. Years later, word reached Sydney of a shipwreck on a beach to the north of Port Stephens. In 1817, a search party found the wrecked ship on a beach north of Smokey Cape. The convicts were never seen again and presumed dead. The site of the wreck became known as “Trial Bay”. This became the site of the historic gaol, where convicts were put to work building a stone breakwater that can be seen to this day.
Trial Bay Beach at Arakoon is a peaceful swimming spot where you’re likely to have a big slice of beach all to yourself. It’s next to a campground run by National Parks and the historic site of Trial Bay Gaol.
4. Take in the View at Smokey Cape Lighthouse
It was 1770, and Captain Cook was sailing north on the Endeavour when he spied a tall headland with a big plume of smoke rising above it. The local Dunghutti people were setting fires in the bush. Cook gave it the name “Smokey Cape”. Today, it is the site of a pretty lighthouse with views over wild seas and untouched beaches. You’ll find Smokey Cape Lighthouse in Hat Head National Park, a 2km drive along a winding road. Wild kangaroos are a common sight basking in the sun. Nearby, Captain Cook Lookout has magic views over North Smokey Beach and the dome-like Green Island.
5. Find Your Happy Place
There are walking tracks, hidden beaches and waterways right along the coastline, waiting to be discovered. Here are a couple of suggestions, but the visitor centre would have more.
Take the kids fishing: Make your way to the parking area at Back Creek, on the north side of Horseshoe Bay. You’ll find a long bridge across the creek which is the only access to Back Beach. It’s a great place to take the kids fishing and there are purpose-built fishing piers accessible from the bridge.
Climb and explore at Little Bay: Little Bay Picnic Area is another gem. It’s a tiny beach squashed between tall cliffs of patterned granite. Parents can relax and watch the kids as they explore the beach and scamper up the stepped boulders. It was a hit with my kids, who discovered a huge cave hidden in the side of a cliff. It isn’t a swimming beach but it’s fun and scenic. There is a grassy park behind the beach with sheltered picnic tables, amenities, and roos everywhere.
Trek to an untouched beach: The track down the headland from Captain Cook Lookout to North Smokey Beach will tempt those who like the sound of a scenic adventure. If you do walk the 800m track to this secluded beach there’s a good chance you’ll have it all to yourself. One word of warning, some people may consider it a ‘clothing-optional’ beach. But there’s plenty of space and you’re not likely to have much company. Besides, any beach where you can find fresh kangaroo tracks has got to be worth the walk.
Take the 4WD for some secluded beach fishing: If fishing and 4WDing is your thing, then it’s worth taking a drive out to Gap Beach, near Arakoon. You’ll follow a steep 4WD drive track about a kilometre through the National Park down to the beach. It’s an exposed beach with strong rips, so not great for swimming, but a top spot to get away from it all and do some beach fishing. Just be aware the track is closed in wet weather.
Explore Australia’s best cave-diving site: It’s clearly not for everyone, but the waters off Smokey Cape are said to conceal the best cave diving site in Australia. Known as “Fish Rock Cave”, it is 125m long and teeming with ocean wildlife. It is also a critical habitat of endangered grey nurse sharks. These peaceful giants inhabit these waters year-round. The local dive centre at South West Rocks runs regular tours to Fish Rock Cave.
