Coffs Harbour is the only place in New South Wales where the Great Dividing Range touches the emerald waters of the Pacific. Those steep rounded hills are a dead giveaway that you’re close to your destination. At one time they were covered in leafy banana trees but nowadays they are just as likely to be cloaked in the white nets of blueberry farmers. Here you’ll find 60km of glistening beaches, all with views to the Solitary Islands which are dotted along the coast. Before long, you start to see signs directing you to the many opulent beachside resorts or cruisy holiday parks. You’ve arrived, and you might not want to leave.
Things to do…
1. Stroll Along the Breakwall to Muttonbird Island
Coffs Harbour Marina has a path along the breakwall that reaches all the way to Muttonbird Island. A walk to the island is one of those peaceful pleasures you just can’t miss out on. The track over the top of Muttonbird Island is more of a challenge but well worth it. It’s important to keep to the path as muttonbirds, also known as shearwaters, nest in holes all over the island. The birds were a traditional food source of the Gumbaynggirr people who believed the moon was the Guardian of the island, keeping the birds there for the people to hunt. Later, during the Great Depression, early settlers harvested muttonbird eggs as a food source. Today, the birds are protected. Each year they migrate thousands of kilometres north to their feeding grounds in the Philippines and then return to this island in the warmer months to breed.
2. Fish and Chips at the Marina
A visit to the Coffs Harbour Marina should be high on your to-do list. The colourful fishing boats moored at the marina make for an authentic backdrop. Whenever I’m in town I like to visit the Fish Coop for lunch. They do a mean fish and chips, and there is always a fresh catch of the day on offer. The marina also has an ice cream shop, an upmarket burger place and a couple of cafes, so you’re sure to find something for everyone. There is a beautiful boardwalk behind the Coop where little people can enjoy spotting schools of fish swimming around the piers. You might even be inspired to book a fishing charter or a whale-watching cruise.
3. Hit the Beach
Coffs Harbour is one of those places that is blessed with beach after sandy beach. Some of the popular ones are Emerald Beach, Digger’s Beach, Jetty Beach and Moonee Beach. Let’s face it, you’ll probably go to whichever one is next to your resort or holiday park. But if you want to try something a little different, take a drive out to Charlesworth Bay. Much of the shoreline is covered in colourful pebbles that are smooth and tactile and chink like glass as you walk on them. If you could somehow cross yoga with a beach this is what you’d get. On the drive out to Charlesworth Bay, you’ll pass the National Marine Science Centre which is also worth a visit.
4. The Big Banana
OK, it had to be here. The Big Banana was the first of the “Big” things in Australia. It was built in 1964 by a man named John Landi, who wanted something to make people stop at his roadside banana stall. This has always been a great backdrop for a family photo, but things have come a long way since the opening of the walk-through banana. These days there’s a giant slide, toboggan ride, ice skating rink, mini-golf, children’s water park and more. I’m happy to say they still have the frozen choc-coated bananas on a stick. Some things never get old.
5. Explore the Solitary Islands Coastal Walk
Did you know there is a 60km coastal track from Red Rock all the way to Sawtell? Whether you like walking, bird watching, photography or just fresh air, you’ll find it here. The three-day walk traverses golden beaches, rocky headlands and lush coastal forest. Of course, you can pick a shorter section to walk, like the one from Park Beach to the Coffs Marina. There are plenty of high vantage points for whale watching between May and November, while dolphins and sea eagles can be seen all year round. Best of all, there are plenty of places on your journey to rest and take a dip.
