Coonabarabran is on the Newell Highway, midway between Dubbo and Tamworth. It’s a practical town, full of friendly locals, with everything you need for a short stay. For the nature lover, “Coona” deserves more time than a quick stopover, (if you can sleep through the rumbling trucks that travel the highway).
Each morning we were greeted with a clear, bright sky, while the autumn nights were cold and starry. Those still, dark nights make Coonabarabran a perfect spot for stargazing. Coonabarabran is also the gateway to the Warrumbungle National Park, famous for its rugged volcanic plugs and lava flows. Warrumbungle means “crooked mountain” in the language of the Gamilaraay people. It’s a traditional meeting place for the First Nations Australians of the region and a bushwalker’s paradise.
The Visitor Centre on the south side of the town is a good first stop for local advice on the area. It also houses a small museum of Australian megafauna, including the original bones of a “diprotodon” – basically a rhinoceros-sized wombat. The huge skull of this creature was found in a nearby creek by a local girl. It was later unearthed by archeologists, along with most of its skeleton. There is evidence to suggest this animal may have been killed by indigenous people over 20,000 years ago.
Three things to do…
1. Explore the Warrumbungles
The Warrumbungle National Park is a scenic thirty-minute drive west of Coonabarabran. It is the visible remains of an ancient shield volcano with more quirky rock formations than you can poke a stick at. The park is a haven for bushwalkers. There are stacks of walks that get you up close to spectacular volcanic plugs, domes and lava flows. The most famous of these is “The Breadknife”, a narrow rock pillar that is 90 metres high. Just be sure to bring plenty of water as most of the walks take several hours and involve a fair bit of climbing.
If a long walk is not your thing don’t stress, you’ll see some amazing scenery by cruising the roads through the park. Jagged mountain peaks seem to appear around every turn. Be sure to stop at Whitegum Lookout for an easy 500m walk. The reward is a panoramic view of some of the park’s best natural features. For the little people, a great place to explore is Canyon Picnic Area. It’s on the same road as the Visitor Centre. There is a short walk that takes you down to a secluded gorge with a babbling creek running through it. On the way, the kids can scamper up a volcanic lava flow and see a breathtaking view of Split Rock.
2. Take a Tour of the Stars
As you drive towards the Warrambungles you can’t miss the brilliant white dome of Siding Springs Observatory perched high on the range. It is Australia’s largest working observatory, but you can visit during the day and see Australia’s largest optical telescope. The visitor centre also has some cute exhibits the kids will enjoy. Jump on a scale and find out how much you would weigh on the moon. Or try to pick up a carton of milk on Jupiter!
You can’t visit Australia’s astronomy capital without doing some stargazing of your own. There are a couple of private observatories that offer a public tour of the starry heavens. Both are popular so you should book ahead. We peered through powerful telescopes at sparkling “jewellery box” galaxies, and dying red stars much older and larger than our own sun. Our guide explained how the old mariners would navigate using the southern cross, and that Aboriginals were the first people to navigate using the stars. A view of the moon’s mountain ranges and craters was one of the highlights.
The colder months are some of the best to view the stars, but check the weather before you book and bring a warm jacket!
3. Discover the Timeless Beauty of Sandstone Caves
This is one time I might have saved the best till last. A 30-minute drive north of Coonabarabran brings you to a hidden gem, the Sandstone Caves, a special place of the Gamillerray people. Turn right from the Newell Highway onto the Yaminba Trail and head a few kilometres down the dirt track until you reach the parking area.
This easy 60-minute bushwalk was already worth it before we reached the caves. The painted orange sands, low green scrub and wildflowers are punctuated by charred black tree trunks. The track circles a sandstone cliff riddled with caves. The walls of the caves have ribbons of colour that make a stunning backdrop for a family photo. There are even some sites where ancient Gamillerray hunters sharpened their spears and carved footprints of the animals they found here.
